Heavy Duty 3-Jaw Hydraulic Cylinder Gland Nut Wrench (105-145mm) - 3/4" Drive - Fits Cat 320 Komatsu PC200 Deere 200D

Heavy Duty 3-Jaw Hydraulic Cylinder Gland Nut Wrench — 105mm to 145mm

You're rebuilding a hydraulic cylinder and the gland nut won't break loose. You've tried the pin wrench — the pins keep slipping out. You've tried the 2-jaw wrench — it cams off under torque and strips the wrench holes. You've tried a pipe wrench — it scarred the gland nut and now it's starting to oval. You need a tool that actually works. This is that tool.

The 3-jaw full-contact wrench clamps around the entire circumference of the gland nut, applying equal pressure from three points simultaneously. It doesn't slip. It doesn't strip pin holes. It doesn't deform the nut. You put it on, attach your 3/4" breaker bar, and the gland nut breaks loose — even after years of being seized by corrosion, thread lock, and hydraulic pressure.

Why 3-Jaw Beats Everything Else

There are four common ways to remove a hydraulic cylinder gland nut. Three of them damage the nut. One doesn't:

• Pin Spanner / 2-Pin Wrench: The pins slip out of the holes under high torque, stripping the wrench holes. Once the holes are stripped, the nut becomes nearly impossible to remove. ❌
• 2-Jaw V-Style Wrench: Better than pins, but the two contact points concentrate force unevenly, causing the nut to oval under extreme torque. ❌
• Pipe Wrench / Channel Locks: Desperate measure. Scars the surface, deforms the nut, and often rounds off the only feature you have left to grip. ❌
• 3-Jaw Full-Contact Wrench (This Tool): Three jaws clamp equally around the full circumference. Force is distributed evenly — no slipping, no stripping, no deformation. ✅

The Design Difference

Unlike the cheap "V-shape" 2-jaw wrenches, this tool is a full-circle clamp design. The three adjustable jaws encircle the gland nut completely, creating uniform clamping pressure around the entire diameter. This equal 3-point contact means:

• Zero chance of slipping — the wrench physically cannot cam off the nut
• No deformation — equal pressure prevents ovaling even at maximum torque
• No stripped holes — doesn't rely on pin holes at all
• Works on damaged nuts — can grip gland nuts that have already been scarred by other tools

Specifications

• Type: 3-Jaw Adjustable Hydraulic Cylinder Gland Nut Wrench
• Capacity Range: 105mm to 145mm (4.13" to 5.71")
• Drive: 3/4" Square Drive (Use with breaker bar or impact wrench)
• Jaws: 3-Point Full-Circle Clamp — hardened steel
• Construction: Heavy duty steel — built for high-torque applications
• Size Class: Medium — covers the most common 20-ton class excavator cylinders
• Condition: Brand New

What Machines Does This Fit?

The 105mm–145mm capacity covers the boom, arm, and bucket cylinder gland nuts on the most popular 20-ton class excavators and similar-sized equipment:

• Caterpillar: Cat 320, 325, 330
• Komatsu: PC200, PC210, PC220, PC228
• John Deere: 200D, 210G, 225D
• Hitachi: ZX200, ZX210, ZX225
• Kobelco: SK200, SK210, SK230
• Volvo: EC200, EC220
• Case: CX210, CX225
• Bobcat: E85 and larger

This wrench is adjustable and works on any gland nut between 105mm and 145mm in diameter, regardless of brand. Measure the outside diameter of your gland nut before ordering.

Size Guide — Which Wrench Do You Need?

3-jaw gland nut wrenches come in three standard size ranges. Measure the outside diameter of your cylinder gland nut to determine which one you need:

• Small (70mm–100mm): Mini excavators — Cat 303, Kubota KX057, Deere 50G
• Medium (105mm–145mm) — THIS WRENCH: 20-ton class — Cat 320, Komatsu PC200, Deere 200D. Most common size.
• Large (140mm–170mm+): 30+ ton class — Cat 345, Komatsu PC300, Deere 350G

If you only own one gland nut wrench, this is the size to get. The 105mm–145mm range covers the cylinders on the machines most commonly found in the field.

How to Use

• Fully retract the hydraulic cylinder and relieve all pressure
• Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the cylinder (cap all open ports)
• Clean the gland nut area — remove dirt, paint, and corrosion from the threads
• Apply penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, or equivalent) to the gland nut threads and let it soak
• Open the 3-jaw wrench to fit around the gland nut
• Tighten the jaws evenly until all three contact the gland nut surface firmly
• Attach a 3/4" breaker bar or impact wrench to the square drive
• Apply steady counter-clockwise torque — the gland nut should break loose without slipping
• Once loose, spin the gland nut off by hand
• Slide the piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder tube
• When reassembling, use the same wrench to torque the gland nut back to spec

Frequently Asked Questions

Will this work with a 1/2" drive breaker bar?
This wrench has a 3/4" square drive. If you only have a 1/2" breaker bar, use a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter. However, for seized gland nuts on 20-ton machines, we strongly recommend using a proper 3/4" breaker bar — you'll need the extra length and strength to break the nut loose.

Can I use this with an impact wrench?
Yes — a 3/4" or 1" pneumatic or electric impact wrench works well, especially on heavily seized gland nuts. The 3-jaw design holds the nut securely even under impact forces.

What if my gland nut is already damaged / ovaled from a pipe wrench?
The 3-jaw wrench can often still grip a lightly damaged gland nut because it contacts the full circumference — it finds purchase even on slightly deformed surfaces. For severely damaged nuts, you may need to file or grind the high spots first to allow the jaws to seat evenly.

Is this just for excavators?
No. This wrench works on any hydraulic cylinder gland nut between 105mm and 145mm in diameter — excavators, loaders, cranes, boom trucks, telescopic handlers, agricultural equipment, industrial presses, and any other machine with hydraulic cylinders in this size range.